Heading South

Heading south is a state of mind, or so I wish it was anyways.  We have to make our way back to Sidney and Van Isle Marina for the end of the month.  Our month of wandering unfortunately has a time limit on it.  We started by leaving Squirrel Cove early with a hope of maybe getting a bit of wind to sail.  No such luck unfortunately.  We decided to make a stop at the Beach Garden Marina and Resort, just south of Grief Point on Malaspina Strait  We've been sailing past this marina for nearly 20 years so figured it was time to stop in and see what it was all about.  Its a totally man-made marina with 2 massive stone breakwaters giving protection to a small marina.  While the draft was a concern, we had no issue, despite a very low tide the night we were there.  We did stay near the entrance however to hedge our bets!  It was narrow enough getting in that we decided to reverse in from the strait through the entrance.  I wouldn't want to try it if it was blowing though.  A nice enough place and the resort is so much more than what you can see from the water.  There are laundry facilities at the marina, along with a liquor store and a lovely Bistro. Showers are included and you simply walk up to the resort proper and use the facilities at the pool.  COVID restrictions meant that we had to book our time at the pool so we had an hour with the place to ourselves, very nice!  This was our treat day so after tending to our chores we booked in to the Seaside Bistro for a nice dinner out.   Lovely view both up and down the strait and great food.  While it rained most of the afternoon, the evening turned out just fine.

Beach Garden Marina

 

We left the next morning to head for Smugglers Cove, a place we had bypassed a couple of years ago in July as it was packed with boats.  Not so much now.  There was one other small boat at anchor and we picked a spot where we could swing and not worry about depth.  Having a 7.5' draft does restrict where we can go sometimes.  Smugglers is a very protected anchorage so a great night sleep with a plan to sail to Nanaimo the next day in a building SE wind.  

 Smugglers Cove

We left early again and motored south through Welcome Passage and out past Pirate Rock.  By the time we were abeam Pirate rock, we had enough wind to sail and off we headed for Nanaimo.  The winds built in as predicted to between 10-15 knots.  We were close hauled so we took a few turns on our number one Genoa and dropped a single reef into the main and headed of at 6 - 6.5 knots right on course for Nanaimo.  We had a wonderful sail, just around 2 1/2 hours across the strait. Our course had us going in the north entrance to the harbour but when we got near, we decided to tack out and head to the south entrance so we could all the way to Newcastle Island (and pump out the head - we need need to be on starboard tack for that!).  So a couple of tacks and we made our way around Protection Island and on to Newcastle island and picked up a park mooring.  It was still before noon so we cleaned up the boat, launched the dinghy and headed over to the Dinghy Dock Pub for lunch.  Pretty much a perfect day.  Quick strait crossing in good wind followed by a nice bit of pub food and beer to wash it all down (well ok, 2 beers).

 Strait of Georgia

Downtown Nanaimo from Newcastle Island

 We've spent a couple of days here, got a some good walks in, saw dad, got some fresh food, and generally started to get back into the necessities of life.  Off through Dodds Narrows tomorrow and another few nights at anchor somewhere until we head back into the marina.

All I can say is we're not planning on hanging around Sidney very long.  We've a friend coming from Sydney Australia for a few weeks so will tour around with her and show her some of our favourite spots.

Squirrel Cove, Cortez Island - Desolation Sound

I don't know why exactly but we always end up in Squirrel Cove when we are in Desolation Sound.  We love it there.  It is a great protected anchorage from all winds.  Anchoring is easy with great holding in mud, and there's lots to do.  When we left Prideaux Haven to head to Squirrel Cove, we had hoped to sail, but no wind until we were about a mile away.  Oh well, killing dinosaur time again.  We pretty much had the entire Cove to ourselves which has never happened.  There were a couple of boats that came in different days but they always left the next morning.  The first full day there it absolutely poured rain, but that was fine.  We put up our rain catcher and filled the water tanks, had a shower, and filled them again!  It rained HARD!  

The next day was glorious.  Sunshine, calm conditions, perfect for a trip to the Squirrel Cove General Store and take out the garbage.

A note to sailors heading this way, garbage is no longer accepted on the government pier and is only accepted at the Cortez Recycling Centre which is apparently a very long walk south from Squirrel Cove.  We took our garbage back to Cygnet and we did get some fresh veg, eggs and hot-dog buns so balance is maintained.  On the way in to the store we dropped the Prawn trap, and on the way back we picked it up, skunked again.  One of these days we'll find the little buggers!  We spent the rest of the day in the cockpit enjoying the sun thinking about not much of anything.

Our last full day we decided to walk the trails from Squirrel Cove over to Von Donup Inlet.  What was initially planned for and hour or so walk turned into a 3 1/2 hour hike around the Norway Loop.  Cathy led the way (so got to test all the bridges first too!)

Wind and tide

They tell us where to go

Sometimes gently

Other times not

We will go

Where they lead us

Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound

 

 

We left Lund after filling up with diesel.  24 litres for the heater and 72 for the engine, a whopping $220.  Lucky for us, the wind was in our favour (there was some) and we sailed slowly north headed for Prideaux Haven.  With no schedule to meet, tides to plan around, or passes to go through it was a prefect day.  Sunshine, blue sky, and enough wind to move us along at 3-4 knots, not screaming fast, but quiet and free!  As we turned the corner to head into Desolation Sound proper, the wind picked up a bit and clocked around to give us a bit more speed.  About half way up Mink Island, the wind went from 7-8 knots on a reach to 15+ close hauled., all in the space of about a minute.  Pulled in some headsail and put a a reef in the main and we tacked our way up to Prideaux.  Found a lovely spot to anchor and that's when the fun started!

Cathy saw a bit of water on the cabin sole around the mast, odd we thought, we never get water there.  Pulled up a hatch in the floor boards and the forward bilge was full of water, pulled up the hatch over the main bilge and the water was just below the floorboards.  Turns out, I had forgotten to switch the bilge pumps back on at some point when I last used the Ham radio (when I transmit, the bilge pumps got crazy).  Not having the pumps on was only one of the issues.  We've been having problems lately with the bilge drain back siphoning water when we are under power.  Normally not a huge issue as the pumps keep the bilge dry (see above!).  The way the boat designed there is a main deep bilge that runs along the centre line, then they slope up towards each side.  When we were sailing close hauled, the boat is heeled over so the water in the bilge slopped up the sides, particularly port side where we have storage in the bilge.  Got everything sorted out (kind of), dry (not really) and then gave up, had a drink and left the rest to the next day.  I had to clean up some electrical connections that got wet but they were well sealed so no issues.

Lessons Learned:

1. Turn the damn pumps on after using the radio
2. Re-route the bilge drain so we can't back siphon anymore (this has gone way up in priority on the list of boat jobs!)
3. Check the bilges more regularly.

Put the prawn trap out for the fist time but without knowing where to go it really is hit and miss.  This time was a miss.  I did get a good workout though pulling up 400' of line, the prawn trap complete with lead weights and a lead weight on the line to keep the trap from drifting.  We've got 2 more weeks until the commercial prawn season starts so I hope we find somewhere to try again soon.

Lund - Gateway to Desoloation Sound

After a long day motoring to Ballet Bay from Princess Louisa, we got up just before 07:00 and the marine weather had changed once again (surprise!) with winds predicted to give us a nice reach up to Lund.  So, we put the coffee on, got the boat ready and pulled up the anchor.  Out onto Malaspina Strait, and no wind, oh well, it was a beautiful day to we pulled up the sail anyways and motored with a bit of help from the mainsail.  Arrived at the dock in Lund around 13:30.  There was one spot left that we squeezed into.  Nothing quite like trying to parallel park a 40 foot sailboat in a 48 foot spot.  No drama thanks to crack crew work from Cathy and an extended boat-hook to pull us into the dock.

 

When we checked in, the Harbour Master Paige.  She welcomed us back, but we hadn't been to Lund for nearly 19 years.  I guess I look like a lot of other white haired, white bearded "gentlemen" sailors that visit Lund regularly and wear a mask!.  We got to know Paige a bit while there, she is a fascinating person.  A former teacher, hotel worker, retail clerk, and certified gemologist from one of the worlds premier gemology schools.  As she was able to tell her grandfather before he passed away a few years ago, she was "a jack of all trades and the Master of the Harbour"!

Over 2 short days we met and talked to a few of the locals.  Great people, all with wonderful stories.  One guy who I'll call the Captain, bought 12 electric bikes and put six on Savory Island for rent.  He ran a-foul of the local legal community but was rescued by friend with a bike business who put the Captains rental business under his bike shop.  Then there was Colin, a fellow Kiwi who came to Canada in the 80s as a 19 year old, ended up settling here, married a Scottish lady, had 2 wonderful daughters, divorced, raised his daughters and lives a simple but fulfilling life on 5 acres in Lund in shack with a trailer for a kitchen

One other major highlight for us was Nancy's Bakery.  Well known in Lund and far and wide, we visited 4 times in 2 days, once for coffee, twice for breakfast and once for lunch.  Everything was delicious and we will go back when we have the chance.

Where the sea takes us

That’s where we will go

Bound for a destination

No plans, just ideas

We will go

Where we are taken

Princess Louisa Inlet

 

We arrived in Princess Louisa Inlet on Wednesday April 6 after a long day motoring from Pender Harbour.  We had hoped the SW winds would push up the various reaches we traveled to get here but nope, instead we got outflow winds right on the nose all the way.  Not much wind but combined with an ebb tide most of the way we averaged just over 5 knots all the way.  We got to Malibu Rapids about 10 minutes before slack tide and went right on through.  

 

Tied up to the dock at Chatterbox falls followed closely by Dreamer.  There was a large trawler style boat as well form Bellingham, but that was it.  New from the last time we were here are moorings for 5 boats just south of the dock.  There were 3 boats there as well, 2 that came in the just before we arrived.

We chatted to the Dreamer crew for a bit on Thursday before they left Friday morning to head back to Sidney.  The boat is going over to Thunderbird Marina in Vancouver for sale by the end of April.  Once Dreamer left, we had the dock to ourselves.  We started out to hike up to the trapper’s cabin but there a lot of deadfalls and we really don’t have the proper gear for the 2-hour hike up.  BC parks has put up 2 warning signs, the first is a general, “this trail is not maintained or marked and it’s strenuous climb.  A bit further along, the warning is more direct, along the lines of “abandon hope all who enter here!”  It was just after that sign we turned back.  Trekking poles, safety gear, water, food, emergency supplies, proper boots, etc. are a must for this trail, something we just don’t have on board.  We spent our time wandering the area around the falls and generally doing not much of anything.

 

We did get some good rain on Thursday afternoon and over-night so out with the rain catcher, and we filled the water tanks.  We planned showers on Friday, and the shower drain pump finally quit completely so Saturday, I dug out a spare water pump and plumbed it in.  Turns out the “new” pump works better the original one ever did.  Live and learn…

Sunday, we untied and meandered up to MacDonald Island to pick up a mooring for a couple of nights.  Other than Cygnet, there is no-one else in the entire inlet, a real first for us.  This is a magnificent place and has been perfect to recharge the soul. The scenery is stunning, steep mountains on all sides dropping straight into the inlet.  Its around 150 meters deep and other than the area directly in front of Chatterbox falls and the moorings at MacDonald Island, you can get right to shore with a deep draft boat.  It’s quiet, peaceful and off the grid.  Our only contact has been with a boaters net each morning by Ham to check in and let people know where we are.  This has been a perfect break from full time work as I ease into semi-retirement.  We’re planning heading out tomorrow and working our way towards Lund.  We’ll take a couple of days, no rush anymore.

 

Where the wind blows

That’s where we will head for

Bound for a destination

That we may

Or may not

Ever get to

Across the Strait

 Yesterday was a bit of a blur.  We got up early(ish) an I did a COVID test to see if I was going to test negative, I did!.  The weather forecast was good to cross the Strait of Georgia so we called dads residence to see if we could get in to see him (we could) and I called the Nanaimo Port Authority to we if we could dock Cygnet there for a few hours ( we could!).  So put the dinghy on deck, got the boat sorted and off to the dock from Newcastle Island.  Tied up, grabbed a cab and went to see dad. He was in great spirits and was super glad to see us!

 

Said goodbye to dad and grabbed a taxi back downtown.  Stopped at the chandler for a few things, the grocery store for some fresh veggies etc. and then headed back to the boat to cross over to Pender  Harbour on the sunshine coast.  Had a great sail with lots of sail changes (reefs in, reefs out, gybe, wing on wing, motor sail, and finally a port tack all the way to Pender Harbour.  Great winds and boat speed consistent at 6.5 -8+ knots.  Saw a few gusts near Pender at 24-25 knots but by then then we were dead downwind on main only and just flying along! Anchored in Garden Bay.

Tuesday was chore day, filled the diesel tanks, get more fresh food, shower, and get ready to head up to Princess Louisa Inlet tomorrow.  Lots of sun and time to relax at the end of the day in a lovely warm cockpit.

Musings

 I'v ebeen testing regularly for COVID and today I tested positive.  My reaction to this was yeah, oh well.  After all Cathy tested positive last week and we live on a boat so I had to show positive sometime.  The downside is I can't visit dad until I test negative.  We're likely to hang around Nanaimo until Thursday so hopefully I'll test clear before we leave.  Z

Today was the first day isn a long while where I just stopped!  Had a rough night with wind and fetch last night but all good this morning  Spent the day just doing not much of anything.  Went for walk on shore this morning on Newcastle Island, had a shower on shore this afternoon and made us a gourmet dinner from a noodles and sauce package a can of Kirkland Chicken, a southwest medley, and a few extra spices.  Turned out pretty good for a scratch meal!  

We started planning our next steps for this trip today.  All we know for sure is the next stop is Pender Harbour and after that we'll see.  The weather forecast is not great but it never is so we'll play this on a day to day basis.

Finally Retired!

 Well, I finally did it, I officially retired from my full time job as of March 31!  We've been planning this for quite a few years and our plan are coming together nicely.  We worked like crazy over the past few months to get everything done and ready and like all good plans, we were a bit frantic for the last 2 weeks.  First we had to haul out and bottom paint, service the prop, polish the hull etc.  A few days before that all happened, Cathy came down with a mild case of COVID but still powered through the polishing.  We started at 08:00 on a Thursday and were back in the water at 11:30 the next day.  Then came the final work to get our new vang clutch and secondary winches installed; sanding epoxy filled holes, taping and painting, etc.  Got that all sorted and then the shopping for a month away on the boat.  Lots of dry good, re-organizing storage that is a at a real premium on Cygnet and finally writing lists so we have a chance at finding where we stuffed everything.  Lists are great but even then we miss stuff. Last nigh we both started tearing the boat apart looking for our stash of Kirkland canned chicken (a sailing MUST HAVE).  We were both sure of where it was except it wasn't.  We found it and will likely remember now (and no, we didn't add it to a list for some reason).  I also had to spend a couple of days in Vancouver to close out my job and say goodbye to everyone.  The company organized a great retirement get together and lots of nice words were said.  I can honestly say that this was one of roles I've ever had and I am so proud of my teams who keep the communications technology running that keep first responders and everyone in BC safe.  I also had to finish emptying out storage locked on the mainland.  Got it all in the car, and stuffed it all in our smaller storage locker.

We untied the lines on Friday as planned and had a really pleasant downwind sail from the east side of Coal Island to the entrance on Montague.  No rain until after we were anchored and buttoned up.  Got to use our new Rocna 25kg anchor for the first time.  They're absolutely right, it sets FAST!  We were worried about dropping and retrieving it as our furler is so low but it's not really any worse than our Bruce that we replaced.  Got up this morning and decided to check the currents at Dodds narrows one last time and found out were were an hour off in our planning.  We originally planned to catch slack at17:00 but it was actually an hour later so we upped anchor and left to get slack at noon.  We motored for awhile, sailed for awhile, motor-sailed or a while and then sailed dead downwind on the main only after we got through Dodds.  Picked up a mooring at Newcastle island and I'm listening to the wind blow from the SSE.  We hope to be able to see my dad tomorrow, assuming we both test clear of COVID!.

So, 2 days retired, 2 days sailing downwind!  Good omens!